We usually recommend LVP/LVT for both—it's waterproof, durable, and quiet. Tile also works well in kitchens; basements favor LVP/LVT because it tolerates moisture swings better.

Tile wins for heat resistance, longevity, and custom looks (and pairs with heated floors). LVP/LVT wins for comfort underfoot, faster installs, and lower maintenance. We can price both side-by-side.

Yes—primarily under tile (bathrooms, entries). We’ll check electrical capacity, add membranes where needed, and set thermostats/timers for efficiency.

Solid hardwood can be sanded more times; engineered handles humidity swings better and comes in wider planks. Main levels often get engineered or prefinished for speed and consistency.

If boards are thick enough and not water-damaged, refinishing is usually the best value. If you’re reconfiguring rooms, want wider planks, or the floor has heavy pet/water damage, replace.

For budget in dry spaces, yes. It gives a convincing look with a lower price point. For wet areas or basements, LVP/LVT is the safer call.

We inspect for squeaks, dips, moisture, and loose panels. Leveling and proper underlayment come first. We plan transitions at doorways and long runs so the floor looks clean and performs well.

Stairs need specific treads, nosings, and trim details. They add labor/material cost and can drive the schedule—worth calling out early for accurate pricing.

A single room can finish in 1–2 days; whole-home LVP/LVT or laminate often 2–4 days; hardwood with sand/stain usually 3–7+ days depending on coats and cure time.

Yes, we can include it. For kitchens we coordinate appliance disconnect/reconnect and set temporary protection so you’re not stuck without a path.